A few weeks ago I received an invitation to review Jennifer Schaertl’s new cookbook. “Gourmet Meals in Crappy Little Kitchens” I was really excited to review the book because Jennifer started her career as a food enthusiast (foodie if you will, but I’m not in love with that word).  The difference is she started cooking amazing meals for herself and friends from a 300 square foot apartment.  I complain that I don’t have enough counter space now and I think my kitchen is over 300 square feet.  After developing a love of cooking and an appreciation for fresh, seasonal ingredients on her own, Jennifer enrolled in cooking school.  She also moved to Texas ans started working her way up the restaurant ladder as a dishwasher.  She went on to become an executive chef, a career path that requires tremendous dedication.  (If you haven’t read it pop over to Michael Ruhlman’s Blog and read this post: So You Wanna Be a Chef – Bourdain.  Eye opening.)

I’ve read criticisms of the book that focused on the paper stock (cheap) photography (amateur) and graphics (kind of goofy).  But, none of those affect the heart of the cookbook.   I think it’s a great beginner cookbook that should be part of that “mom kit” that stocks every new apartment.  There’s a great intro section on stocking a pantry so you always have something to cook, Utensils, cookware and avoiding pitfalls.  I think this is invaluable to a new cook (no matter how big your kitchen or age) .  She includes recipes that represent many different cuisines and writes in a way that makes the reader/cook feel like they can do it.  She has also sprinkled tips throughout the book.   I think this book absolutely accomplishes what Jennifer set out to do; she takes some fear and mystery out of the kitchen and presents ways to make great food.

Here’s a sample of one of her recipes

Holy Moly Chicken Pasole

Makes 2.5 Quarts

A gourmet version of tortilla soup, this rustic version is actually thickened with finely diced pieces of corn tortilla that break down as the stew simmers. It’s also a great way to utilize leftover chicken, which makes it a standard on my rotation of Soupe du Jour in my restaurant. There’s always leftover chicken laying around!

1 rotisserie chicken, shredded off the bone

8 c chicken stock

1 onion, diced

6 cloves garlic

1 green bell, diced

1 rib of celery, diced

2 T chili powder

1 T ground cumin

½ c tomato puree

1 large tomato, diced

1 T oregano

5 corn tortilla finely minced

½ tsp red pepper

Sea salt and black pepper to taste

½ c cilantro, chopped

1. In a large stock pot over a medium-high heat, bring the shredded chicken, stock, onion, garlic, bell pepper, and celery to a gentle simmer. Once simmering, add all of the other ingredients except for salt, pepper, and cilantro.
2. Once the tortilla has begun to break down and thicken the stew (about 30 minutes), season to your tastes with salt and pepper. Garnish with the chopped cilantro.

In my life I’ve met a very few people who I instantly respected.  I must give a nod to two of my earliest bosses (and the first two people I remember giving me this feeling)  who helped shape the career that allows me to afford my cooking passion, Sheri Benjamin (who owned the Benjamin Group which is where my career was put in motion) and Ellen Roeckle, who I worked for twice in my career (Benjamin Group and Bay Networks).  When they walk into a room I feel calm.  I know that no matter what happens, they’ll know what to do.  And they do.  Some people tell me I have that affect on them, I consider it the highest compliment.

Cat Cora is one of those people for me.  She’s calm, in control and retains her femininity in a somewhat male dominated profession.  I respected her the instant I laid eyes on her.  In June, Cat Cora did a private lunch at her restaurant Kouzzina  which is located near the Boardwalk hotel in the Epcot Resort.

I cannot tell you how happy I am that I attended this.  Disney always puts together amazing events, there was little likelihood of any disappointment so I tried not to develop an expectations.  We arrived and there were roughly 60 people at the event.  We were all presented with personalized menus which was a very nice touch.  After being shown to our table we watched the chef’s spring into action.  Kouzzina is an open kitchen so you can watch all the action.

The menu was amazing!  We were able to sample several dishes.  But then again, this is a Cat Cora menu flawlessly executed by her Kouzzina Executive Chef Dee and her talented staff, so it’s not surprising that it was amazing.  I thought about posting pictures of the plates; but to be honest my iPhone could not capture how beautiful they were and I don’t want to detract from their impact with bad photography.

Menu

Mezze

Dolmades
with Dill Oil

Salt Roasted Beets
with Skordalia

Tuna Tataki Lettuce “Gyro”
with Sumac Onions and Avocado Tzatziki

Salad

Heirloom Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Barrel Aged Feta
with Micro Arugula Aged Red Wine Vinaigrette

Piato

Basque Rubbed Lamb Chop
with Feta Herb Saltsa

Pastitsio
Traditional Greek lasagna with Kasseri

Cinnamon Stewed Chicken
Slow simmered chicken with tomatoes, herbs and Cinnamon sticks

Glyka

Chocolate Budino, Baklava, Coffe Creme Brulee

What I enjoyed most about the meal is that as each course was served, Chef Cora came out and told us why the dishes are special to her.  Relating cooking to her mother and her Greek heritage.  Food that is simple and reminiscent of home cooking was so beautifully plated that you couldn’t imagine making it at home.   But then, Cat would explain the preparation and give you a little dose of her confidence, inspiring you to go home and try it.

Throughout the meal she made it a point to go to each table and talk to everyone individually.  She answered questions about Iron Chef as if she’d never heard them before.

I asked her two questions that were important to me.

When was the first moment you actually felt like a chef?

When I got the title, the first time I became executive chef at a restaurant.

What are the most important skills a home cook can have?

Good cookware makes all the difference.  Using quality pots, pans and knifes will make your time in the kitchen more enjoyable.  That doesn’t mean you have to purchase expensive brand names, you just have to purchase quality.  While quality has a price — the pans will last a lifetime if properly cared for. (Editor’s Note:  Not once did she pitch her line of cookware she is launching and this was a perfect softball question for her to do that.  I was extremely impressed by that.  Also in my personal experience I’ve heard many people complain about their electric stoves and how they can’t cook on them, they need their Viking gas stove.  I disagree.  While I’d live a Viking stovetop in my kitchen, I can’t afford one so I have a ceramic top stove.  I push out perfect food almost every night.  Here’s my dirty little secret, the  pans do most of the work.  They provide even heating that makes getting a good sear easy.  I personally use Calphalon stainless steel and Le Creseut enameled cast iron. I use the very inexpensive Bar Keeps Friend to clean them and they all look brand new.)

At the end of the day we were all fortunate enough to receive an autographed copy of Cat Cora’s Classics with a twist.  She also autographed my Whineaux chef’s jacket which was a request I felt a little sheepish about but she put me at immediate ease saying she thinks it’s a fantastic idea!

This book is beautifully photographed, but more importantly includes tons of recipes that you want to make.  She puts a Greek spin on American favorites like  Nachos,  but she also has Japanese, French and other cuisines represented.  The idea is taking comfort food and putting a spin on it, so that it’s still comforting, but not boring.  It’s the kind of food you want to make at home.  This is a cookbook you should add to your collection.

Until next time!

Cheers!

]]> http://www.whineaux.com/2010/07/24/cooking-with-cat-cora/feed/ 4 http://www.whineaux.com/2010/02/08/cookbook-review-sweeping-her-off-her-feet-with-food/ http://www.whineaux.com/2010/02/08/cookbook-review-sweeping-her-off-her-feet-with-food/#comments Mon, 08 Feb 2010 17:49:18 +0000 dawn http://www.whineaux.com/?p=373

It’s no secret that I love a good cookbook.  I have a bookcase full of them, so anytime I’m asked to review a book I jump at the chance.  The premise of this book intrigued me — it’s written for men who don’t normally cook and suggests making dinner as a romantic gesture, just in time for Valentines day (the book’s official release date is February 14, 2010, suggested retail is $25 per book, softcover)

My criteria for a good cookbook varies slightly based on the intended audience.  In this case the intended reader is a male who is not accustomed to spending time in the kitchen.  So my expectations are:

• Simple recipes with clear, detailed instructions
• Pictures of the finished product and any steps that may seem tricky to a novice
• At least one fail-proof recipe

I read cookbooks like most people read novels, cover to cover.  I’m looking at how they provide direction, can I follow it, am I confused at any point in the process and are the recipes “do-able.”  My definition of “do-able” varies.  If you pick up a copy of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Julia Childs, you should expect to spend a few hours in the kitchen; it’s the nature of the beast.  A book that promises dinner as romantic foreplay shouldn’t leave the man so exhausted that he falls asleep before the dishes are in the sink.

This book has a number of pretty serious flaws.  That’s if you overlook the cheesy pandering in the introduction where the author all but promises that after cooking a meal like this you can expect panties to fly off at high velocity and likely you’ll be doing it on the table pushing the dishes to the floor Hollywood style.

First the good:

There is a section on setting a romantic table.  With the exception of men who work in the culinary industry; I bet that the table setting isn’t something they pay much attention to.  For most men I’ve known, the table-setting is utilitarian, not mood setting.  However going to the trouble to light candles, get flowers and set a pretty table is likely to melt her heart.  It’s a good section.

He offers a section on kitchen tools and a glossary of terms.  Great for first time or new cooks who may view their microwave as their primary cooking tool.

There are some suggestions on setting the mood prior to the date which are cute.

The recipes are pretty universal in appeal and the book is organized by menu with some additions in the back.  Example menu: Grilled Salmon with Mango Salsa, Baked Pesto Bread, Garden Salad with herbed yogurt dressing Lemon Tart with Raspberry Coulis and a wine suggestion.

There are color photographs of the finished dishes which helps.

Now, my criticisms:

Most of these menus would take me, a fairly accomplished cook; between 90 and 120 minutes to prep and serve.  While some shortcuts are offered, they are still time consuming, especially if the reader has limited knife skills.  The recopies don’t provide cook/prep times which is HUGE for planning and one of the most difficult things for even accomplished cooks.  I can see dinner being served at 10:00 or 11:00 — so late that the romance becomes more difficult (or is that just because I’m pushing 40 and I value sleep more than a 20-something?)

There is basic information missing.  For example, as this is for people who don’t cook often, I think it’s fair to assume that dicing a mango may be a new skill for at least a good percentage of readers.  There is no discussion of the pit and how to wrangle it.  Let me paint this romantic picture:  Gentleman is excited to be making a special dinner for his lady, but he’s running a little behind and nervous.  He skins the mango which is now nearly impossible to hold, he’s probably using a dull or flimsy knife.  He doesn’t know there’s a giant hairball like pit that runs in a totally funky shape up the middle,  knife slips and 12 stitches later he’s so doped up on pain killers that romance isn’t even in his vocabulary and he’s hoping he hasn’t lost function in his thumb!  This is easy to avoid by giving people a heads up.  (Also there is no discussion of what makes a good knife or the importance of sharp knives)

The same recipe suggests using a flexible metal spatula to remove the skin from the fish after grilling it, but there are no photos.  If you don’t know what you are doing this is a great way to go from salmon fillet to salmon chunks which while not tragic would be disappointing to the cook.  More guidance would have been helpful.

While there are color photos, many of them are taken on angles which are very artistic, but not educational.  It’s really hard to see how some of the food was plated.

There are many typos which made me wonder about the proofreading.  For example in the Lemon Tart recipe the paragraph on making the crust shows up twice, which isn’t huge, but it’s a mistake that leads me to wonder about others.

In the lamb osso bucco recipe (which otherwise would have been the foolproof entry) red wine appears on the ingredient list twice (once 3/4 cup and the second entry is 1 cup)  This would make sense if perhaps the directions called for adding wine at two separate points, but that’s not the case.  So I’m left to wonder how much wine should I really use.  Also in the same recipe it calls for chicken broth and beef broth – which could be intentional, but after the wine listing I’m concerned; especially because there’s  a section on making veal osso bucco  and it directs you to substitute chicken broth for the beef broth — so does that mean double chicken broth?

The book promises a french toast recipe (what could tug at the heart more than breakfast in bed after a romantic evening) but I guess the recipe didn’t make the cut and the reference was not removed.

I’m also disgusted by the frequent references to buying things like demi glace and a chef’s coat on “www.Cooking2GetSome.com”  (imagine ladies how romantic to see your man in a “cooking2getsome” chef coat, he may as well greet you at the door and say the only reason I cooked dinner was so you’d put out so you better plan for that because now you owe me)

So overall my recommendation is skip this book.  There are lots of cookbooks that focus on novices that have better descriptions.  There’s nothing less sexy than feeling like you failed and this book lacks the kind of direction that will help ensure success.  Also — perhaps it’s just because I’m not the right audience, but the constant references to a sexual payoff are a turnoff.  To be certain coming home to a nice dinner, no matter how simple would be fantastic, and I am certain that it would be a special evening we’d both remember.  A true romantic gesture has no end-game other than to make your special someone feel extraordinary, otherwise the gesture is cheapened.   This book ends up reading like a “how to get in her pants guide” for frat boys; even suggesting that if you make one recipe you should consider taking Viagra.

A couple weeks ago I received an announcement for the new Silver Spoon Pasta cookbook.  The pitch:

The Silver Spoon, THE SILVER SPOON: PASTA (Phaidon Press; October 12, 2009; $39.95 hardcover) presents a collection of more than 350 authentic and definitive pasta recipes for all fans of this tasty Italian staple. Whereas The Encyclopedia of Pasta is more of an A to Z “history” of pasta, our book shows how to actually prepare the pasta dishes.

I own the original Silver Spoon and it is an amazing reference of Italian recipes.  I was excited to review this book based on my previous experience.

The book is divided into two categories, dry pasta and fresh pasta.  Most of the dry pasta dishes seem to be side dishes more than entrees, which makes sense as pasta is typically one of four courses served in Italy, whereas in the U.S. we tend to order pasta as a main course.

The ingredients in the book were easy to come by.  In the original Silver Spoon cookbook they embraced the notion of waste not want not, and many of the cuts of meat recommended are unavailable or undesirable to the squeamish American palate.  The Silver Spoon Pasta relies on easy to find, commonly appealing ingredients (except for some of the pasta shapes).  The downside is that the recipes became repetitive.

I made two dishes from the book, a angel hair and Gruyere and a baked angel hair pasta mold.  The angel hair and Gruyere turned out very nice and was eaten quickly by my family.  The recipe itself would be no surprise to a frequent cook.  It was written as a vegetarian dish, I added chicken and mushrooms because if I don’t have some meat, I don’t feel like I’ve eaten.  Essentially you made a bechamel sauce and added Gruyere then I topped it with chicken breast sauteed in butter with salt, pepper, roasted garlic and mushrooms.

The second dish intrigued me because I’d never seen it.  It was a baked angel hair pasta mold.

To make it, I prepared a roux and added some cooking water from the angel hair pasta.  After the sauce thickened, I added three egg yolks and folded in the whipped whites of three eggs.  All of this went into a 9 inch round cake pan and I topped it with my red sauce.  As I mentioned before I can’t have a meal without meat, so I also cooked a rib eye for the three of us to share.  I’ll post that marinade recipe soon because it was YUMMY.

The pasta mold received a ho hum review by the family me included.

I also passed the book along to a friend of mine from Sicily.  He liked it and picked several recipes he wants us to prepare together.  He did comment that he wished there were more photos.

Overall I think this is a good cookbook for a beginner.  The techniques are easy for a home cook and there aren’t many requirements for specialized equipment or tools.  While each pasta shape and origin is described, the information is basic. It would have been nice to have included substitutions to in case you can’t find the pasta they suggest as many of the shapes in the book aren’t commonly stocked in American grocery stores.

I saw it this weekend at Costco for about $22 if you are interested.

Here’s the recipe that they included with the pitch:

RIGATONI WITH MEATBALLS Silver Spoon Pasta

RIGATONI WITH MEATBALLS

Rigatoni con Polpettine

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 1 hour

Serves 4

11 ounces ground meat

1 sprig chopped flat leaf parsley

½ garlic clove, chopped

1 egg, lightly beaten

all-purpose flour, for dusting

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 celery stalk, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1 sprig chopped small fresh rosemary

1 ¾ cups bottle strained tomatoes

12 ounces rigatoni

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

salt and pepper

Combine the ground meat, parsley, and garlic in a bowl, then stir in the egg and season with salt and pepper. Shape the mixture into small meatballs, dust with flour, and set aside. Heat the oil in a pan, add the onion, celery, carrot, and rosemary and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Then add the meatballs, and increase the heat to medium. Cook until the meatballs are lightly browned all over, add the bottle strained tomatoes and season with salt. Lower the heat, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 40 minutes. Cook the rigatoni in a large pan of salted boiling water until al dente, then drain, and tip into the pan with the meatballs. Mix well and heat through for 2 minutes. Transfer to a warm serving dish and sprinkle with the parmesan.