Between you and me, since we’re all such great friends — I do not have a “cool card” nor have I ever had one.  The “cool card” is what I believe ultra hip people flash at each other like badges to get into exclusive places with trendy decor and food.  When I manage to sneak into one of these places I spend most of my time casting suspicious looks at patrons and employees wondering if they know that I don’t have a cool card and when I’m going to get kicked out.  In short, I spend all my time thinking about how much I don’t belong there and none of my time enjoying the place.

Gastro Pubs are trendy right now, and Haven is set in Old Towne Orange– one of the cool card centers of the world.  I’m almost surprised that there aren’t roadblocks to keep “the others” (that would be me) out.  When we planned a short trip to LA last month Bill searched high and low for a dining experience that would knock my socks off — when he found Haven on the web — My socks were already itching to jump off my feet — I couldn’t wait to get there.  The menu looked like I had written it (or at least my cool alter ego chef self had written it), the beer list looked like I could swim in it and even the wine and spirits list were impressive.  The biggest draw — Bacon Ice Cream!

When the day finally arrived (yes, we are the sort of people that find a restaurant weeks in advance and eagerly anticipate the meal as if Christmas was coming) my nerd self took over — what if the place didn’t live up to expectations?  What if I wasn’t comfortable there — what if what if what if????  As we pulled into Old Towne — my fears were heightened, lots of people wearing all black, shiny fancy cars and this place was on cool street and it was packed.  The minute we walked in the crowded door (and mind you this was at 6:00, early dinner so we could be home to put our friend’s little one to bed) all my fears fell away.  It’s the kind of place everyone can go and feel they belong.  There were tables of people I’m certain were models, actors and hipsters, a couple tables of business types finishing up their happy hour and closing their deals, couples on dates and families; all enjoying themselves in the same environment. Haven says that they are “creating a destination that can demand the respect and love of being called a home away from home. A restaurant with a heart… Your own Haven.”  I think they succeeded.

At 6:00 we faced an hour wait for our table — no worries, the extensive beer list would keep us occupied.  Except for reasons I cannot explain I didn’t want beer.  Typically in a place that prides itself on a beer collection, wine is ignored, not so at Haven.  I had an amazing glass of wine, I’d tell you which one, but I think the wine list has already changed.  Because they’ve been so attentive to the wine list, I’m positive you’ll find a wine you love.  My friends made their way through the beer offerings and were also highly impressed.  Hits included Avery Dunagan IPA and Firestone Union Jack IPA (do you see a trend?).

Once seated I proceeded to try to order one of everything on the menu.  My companions stopped me, but I did manage to order three appetizers, the last by shouting over my shoulder to a retreating waiter — that way nobody could stop me.  Sneaky but effective.  Because we were having Avery IPA, we had to order the Housemade Potato Chips — which were perfect.  Crunchy, salty and really ought to come with a side of the bleu cheese ice cream (more on that later).  Our second choice was  Roasted Brussels Sprouts which though perfectly roasted were overpowered by the lemon juice.  Hopefully that was a line cook mistake on one dish.  And my sneaky order; we had an entree portion of Mac ‘N Cheese with fontina, parmesan and black truffles.  The four of us descended on the Mac ‘N Cheese like kids on ice cream, the clank of forks against the dish sound like a percussion band and lingering too long by the bowl could have resulted in a puncture wound.  In short, we liked it.

Perhaps we were too full, but our entree’s fell short of our appetizer experience.  I wanted to be adventurous and ordered the braised lambs neck over kale.  It was just OK, the kale was the hit for me.  The lamb itself was fatty.  I asked Chef Greg Daniels about this and his response:

“Most of the fat on the lamb neck is intramuscular, and adds to the rich flavor of the dish.  Anything on the outside of the neck is partially rendered during the process of searing the necks before braising.  The appreciation of a cut of meat such as the neck involves some working around the fat and the tendons that are located throughout it.”

My Husband had the Braised Short Ribs which were delightful, they were perfectly seasoned and fork tender.  The ribs were served on a carrot puree.  I thought this was an interesting choice since the short ribs have a soft texture I was looking to find some “crunch” on the plate.  Since I was asking the Chef questions, I asked why he selected the carrot puree vs. something with more texture:

“The reason for the smooth texture of the purée to accompany the rib was to add to the richness of the dish.  The velvety mouthfeel of the carrot purée works together with the braised meat so well, that I felt it unnecessary to add another component to the dish.”

Our friends ordered the Roasted Jidori Chicken Breast and the Haven Hanger Steak.  Both were good though the hanger steak was a bit dry.

We finished with dessert.  Of course we ordered the Candied Bacon Ice cream and also the Irish Car Bomb — a Guinness Stout Chocolate Cake with Guinness ice cream,  Irish Cream chocolate sauce, Jameson caramel.  The Bacon Ice Cream was fun to try and we ate all of it, but the Car Bomb was , well, the bomb.  Again we were a group of spoons and elbows nobody spoke, we just ate.

After such an amazing meal you would think that I was done, but the description of the Tarte Tatin was haunting me, “pâte brisée, gala apple, Maytag bleu cheese ice cream.”  I simply HAD to have that bleu cheese ice cream — and so I did.  I was once told that when you taste a dish the first thing to do is taste the individual elements then taste the composed dish.  So I did, I tasted the tarte and found it overwhelmingly sweet — I was concerned.  Then I tried the ice cream which seemed like it belonged in a salad because the bleu cheese taste was overwhelming.  On it’s own, each element seemed out of balance.  Next I tasted a composed bite — and it was amazing.  I was also inspired to try the bleu cheese ice cream with a potato chip and loved it.

Even though the restaurant was packed, and our table was in the area where people hang out before being seated, we didn’t feel crowded and our server was fantastic.  We didn’t wait for anything, he was attentive, glasses were never empty, dirty plates did not pile up and he was personal without trying to be our new fake best friend.

Before writing this review, I sent email to Chef Daniels with some questions about the menu and also a mini Q&A which he was kind enough to respond to.  Below is my interview with the Chef:

Why did you become an Executive Chef?
I’ve always loved cooking.  From a very young age, I helped my mother in the kitchen in whatever way possible.  During my 20′s, I worked through many positions in the restaurant industry, and fell in love with it.  I spent many years bartending and also supervised or managed for restaurants and nightclubs.  I went to culinary school during this time, and began working in kitchens.  Much of my time was split between my passion for cooking and my late night bartending to pay the bills. Many connections were made during these years, and the Haven Gastropub concept was developed between some of the people I have worked with and met over those years.

What is unique about Haven?

We set ourselves apart from the rest with our unique food offerings, our amazing beer, wine, and liquor selection, and our attention to detail when it comes to operating an establishment of ours.  We’ve all spent a lot of time in the industry, and we try to look at all issues and details from every possible angle.  We’ve spent many hours debating things such as paint and fabric colors, that other businesses rely either solely on an interior decorator or haphazardly choose themselves.  I think our efforts shine through, being confident yet understated.

What would you recommend people order?

My go-to items are usually the Haven Burger, the Braised Short Rib, or the Jumbo Prawns.  Otherwise, I tend to suggest whatever the newest item is on our menu.  We change the menu frequently with the season, or due to boredom.  I like going to restaurants and trying something new, so I try to offer the same to our guests.

Cuts such as the Neck of Lamb, or dishes like Venison or Rabbit when we do those specials are always my favorite.  So many people get in a rut eating beef, chicken, or pork.  Try something out of the ordinary!

What’s your favorite thing about running a restaurant?

Giving people the full experience.  Great food, great beer, and great service.  Showing people that there are restaurants out there that actually care about the food they are putting on your plate.  We have a lot of regular guests, and I think they’ve realized or they always knew that there is better food out there.  Applebee’s and Olive Garden have littered our communities with subpar, overpriced fare, and I’m tired of seeing lines outside their buildings.  You can get a great meal for the same price.  It just baffles me. (Editor’s Note: Me too!)

What skill do you think that the advanced home cook should master and why?

Mise en place.  Just having everything prepped and ready to go is the best thing a home cook could have going for them.  It makes cooking more enjoyable, more practical, and the end result will seem less rushed and hectic.  Get your ingredients all prepped and organized, then just enjoy the process…

Valentines Day is quite, it’s “romantic”, it’s well, fussy.  I’ve never thought of it as a day that I’d go hear an Irish band on the patio.  I cannot tell you how much fun I had and how much I am looking forward to seeing them again.

Our Valentine’s Day was spent watching they (very elongated) Daytona 500 with my parents and celebrating my father’s birthday with my Beef Short Ribs Bourguignon and a Genoise cake.  (If you want me to post these recipes please leave comments.  I’m trying to reshape the blog and I’m not sure how much people are liking the recipes)

After they left we went to the Tavern, I was very unsure of what to expect.  But the patio was full of people having a great time, families, young people, couples and singles.  Everyone was having a fantastic time, people walking by changed their direction and came in to enjoy the music.  Instead of an atmosphere of traditional Valentine’s day lace and hearts, this was the romance of having so much fun with your sweetheart that you couldn’t help but reconnect and remember how in love you are.

If you aren’t familiar with the Town Tavern, it’s Boston Fare and a great beer bar with over 99 beers available.  Lucas Widrick is currently making his way through the beer list and blogging about it at www.nighthops.com

They have the BEST seafood here, flown in from Boston.  I’d tell you what my favorite meal is, but it varies by mood (scallops, scrod, haddock, lobster).  Last night I had the twin lobster tails.   Too often lobster tails are warm water (grainy texture) or overcooked.  They are always perfect at the Tavern.  I had a glass of Frie Brothers Chardonnay (Ok, 2) with my dinner.  I love that wine because it’s buttery and has enough acid that it’s great with food.  Bill had the Sam Adams Nobel Pilsner, their current seasonal offering which is becoming a favorite of his — he’s going to miss it when it’s gone.

If you get the chance to visit Celebration I highly recommend you check this place out.

Until next time!

]]> http://www.whineaux.com/2010/02/15/an-irish-valentines-day/feed/ 0 http://www.whineaux.com/2009/11/17/le-chat-qui-peche-restaurant/ http://www.whineaux.com/2009/11/17/le-chat-qui-peche-restaurant/#comments Tue, 17 Nov 2009 03:32:44 +0000 dawn http://www.whineaux.com/?p=295 When I go to a foreign city, especially Paris or Rome — I walk around with a map in hand and a vague idea of where I am.  I think it’s the best way to experience the city.  Today — I did that in the Latin Quarter in Paris.  My primary destination was the Conciergierie (Revolutionary Prison) on the Ile de la cite.  I had to hurry to get to the museum but luckily it was nearly empty and I was able to see everything quickly.  Then I headed over to the left bank for a snack.  While looking at my guidebook I discovered there were lots of pedestrian streets near me.  So I embarked on a journey.

I was amazed to discover several Fondue and Raclette Restaurants as well as a thriving Greek district.  Last time I was in Paris I was one street away from this wonderland and missed it.  That’s how it goes when you travel.

I stopped in one cafe and had a Kir Royale (I’ll have one every day in Paris – they make me happy) walked around and explored St. Severin which is an amazing cathedral.  I also walked to  St. Julien le Pauvre and then I was back to dinner.  Here’s the nice thing — both of these sites were within minutes of each other by foot.

After perusing countless restaurants, I settled on Le chat qui peche (named after a mid-evil alley it is near)  the restaurant promised classic French food and Raclette.  The waiter was cheerful and kind. The decor classic French – perhaps a tad overdone, but lovely and it suited me very well.

I first ordered wine (This is a half bottle and that’s how they do it, no by the glass.)  The wine was friendly, fruity but dry.  A nice accompaniment to my inappropriate insistence on having red wine with Raclette.

The first course was Pate Campagne which I adore.  MMM Meat Butter.  How could life get any better?  (see the pat of butter by the conrichons?

Next came the Raclette I had the mixed meats.  As you can see this portion is more for sharing.  I also found the pat of butter on the meat amusing — cheese AND butter AND sausage — decadent!

I was too full for dessert, but I had a wonderful meal.  I would highly encourage you to find this restaurant if you are in Paris.  It is in a bit of a tourist district, near Notre Dame but it was such a fun area and the people were very welcoming.

Le chat qui Peche
10 Rue de la Huchette
75005 Paris
Tel: 01.43.54.98.89

Cheers!

Here’s the abridged review — save your money.  We had a great appetizer (Arancini, but to dumb it down for the tourist crowd it was called mozzarella rice balls) I had a nice bowl of house made Italian Wedding soup and Tyler had a nicely cooked T-Bone.  They served a roasted head of garlic with the bread which was a delightful but ruined by really bad bread.  Tyler’s T-Bone was served over raw spinach with slices of raw garlic.  I think it was supposed to be wilted spinach and they decided the heat of the steak wilt it;  but it should have been either cooked or raw — it was in weird middle ground and either way the large slices of raw garlic were unpalatable.  The garlic mashed potatoes were over salted and dry.  The spaghetti Bolognese was terrible.  An Italian restaurant ought to season the pasta water.  Price tag for 3 $200.00

But the review isn’t even what prompted me to write. In one meal I witnesses so much inconsideration towards fellow diners I was truly stunned.  We go out to eat not because we can’t cook but because we want a pleasant experience.  In a room of 200 people, one oaf can ruin the atmosphere for everyone.  The top 4 events occurred during last night’s dinner and are listed in order.  The others are highlights from the past — inconsideration all stars if you will.

1) You’ll Never be as Important as Me.  When we arrived there was quite a line to check into the restaurant.  After standing in this line for 15 – 20 minutes a man comes charging around dives in front of my husband (who was next to speak to the hostess) and says [I'm not leaving words out this is how he spoke]  “Yeah, 8:00 reservations — we’re here early I expect you’ll get us in”  She explains that they are busy and running a wait already but she’ll try.  He reminds her that he has a baby with him (so his decision to take the baby out late has become her problem).  They accommodate him and seat him and his family.  It’s not 2 minutes and he’s up rudely complaining again — and then again.  All of this loudly.  All of this bringing down the fun factor for everyone because now the staff is stressed  and we’re listening to the guy who’s either permanently angry or taking out his bad day by dressing down the staff as if they aren’t deserving of common courtesy.  (he lacked a volume control, so listening to him was compulsory for anyone with ears)

Rude Guy from New York — You get a double fail — you were a jerk, and I’m pretty sure you are teaching your kid to be one.

2) Romper Room.  After a roughly one hour wait for our table (which by the way we expected and didn’t mind at all) we were seated next to a “delightful” family that must live in a bubble.  I made this assumption because they had no idea other people were in the restaurant.  Their two children (roughly 9 and 10) were up and down from their seats running around nearly knocking down a server twice that I saw.  They were using their outside voices to whine and fight.  Every time the boy looked at the girl she would whine in that little girl tone that can split your head “NOOOOOOOO”  Followed by “MOMMMYYY”  and then DaaaaaaDDDDD”  Then they decided to mess up dad’s hair and take photos — but they needed to fight over how to mess it up.

Before anyone sends me hate mail — I’d like to set the stage, we started dinner at 8:30, a nice adult hour.  I support taking kids to restaurants but they should behave like they are in a restaurant, not a playground.  Part of teaching them to grow up is teaching them that there is at time and a place for everything — but everything is not acceptable everywhere.

3) The Freight Train. Arguments about personal liberties aside, smoking is illegal in restaurants.  Smoking is so despised by many people  that it’s illegal on outdoor patios.  You may not like this rule, but it is a rule.  The reason that law is in place it to enforce courtesy.  Getting up and walking to the other side of the rail to smoke like a freight train is not abiding by the spirit of the rule or being considerate.  Circumventing the rules by hanging on the railing and smoking 2 cigarettes before you order, two before your entree comes and then I lost count of how many more is a bit excessive.  Even better is throwing the butt on the ground because someone will come clean it.  Let’s say I walked up to their table farted like a truck driver and dropped a candy wrapper every 4 minutes throughout the meal.  I’m pretty sure that I’d get asked to leave.  At least I hope so.

Smokers — even if we are outside please don’t stand right by the tables.  Maybe wear a patch for dinner — then you don’t have to leave your companions or impact anyone else’s experience and don’t drop your butts.  They are litter.

4) The Industry Mogul. I know you are important.  I know your job is important.  I know there’s lots of money on the line and if you don’t take the call at 8:00 on a Friday night the entire industry could collapse.  I also know cell phones have digital technology.  It’s completely possible to speak in your normal voice on a cell phone and be heard around the world.  We’ve come a long way from tin cans and string.  If you think I’m crazy, it’s also possible to excuse yourself from the table.

Business hours are for business, most of us want to relax at dinner please don’t make that impossible.

5) The Patient.  Seriously — medical care and health are huge issues in life but I don’t think the table is the place to go through the details of your medical care.

6) Me Amore! You are young.  You are in love.  You have a hotel room, car or house for making out.  Keep  your tongue in your mouth when you are in a restaurant.

7) The Royal Family.  You are paying for a meal.  You should enjoy that meal, the server should take every reasonable step to make sure you do.  However your server isn’t an indentured servant from the 18th century.  Your server has the same basic life plan as you — provide fro themselves and their family.  And feelings.  They should be spoken to with courtesy and respect — the same way you would want someone to treat your daughter when she works her way through college waiting tables.    You should understand that you aren’t their only table.  When you order them around like animals and make their job miserable — you make them miserable and usually this expands to all the other diners in the area.  It’s a total downer to hear someone be mean.
The Food Critic. This one is dependent on the restaurant you are at.  But I think that Top Chef and Hell’s Kitchen have created a lot of arm chair food critics.  Now people who probably can’t even bake a cake with a mix are loudly complaining about unbalanced seasoning and texture. Complainers bring the mood down for everyone.  By all means if something is really wrong, discretely send it back.  If it’s different than you expected but not improperly prepared — deal.  But never throw a fit like a 19 year old princess bride who’s orchids are medium purple vs. dark purple.

9) I’m allergic to food. When Harry met Sally was funny.  The diner scene was funny.  Walking into a fully booked restaurant in the middle of service and announcing you are a celiac vegan and you only like to eat orange foods is not fair or funny.  This does not mean you can’t go out.  But have a heart.  Most restaurants have menu’s online and they want to create a pleasant experience for everyone — including special dietary requests.  Call ahead, talk to the chef, that way he can come up with something that will make you happy and you won’t throw service off for the rest of the restaurant.

10) Captain Caveman.  Many of us have to work to remember which plate is our bread plate.  When confronted with 6 – 8 pieces of cutlery and3 -4 glasses dinner can be very confusing.  That’s natural.  In a restaurant, I try to keep my eyes at my table.   But some people’s behavior is so shocking that you can’t ignore them.  I once saw a woman eat an entire salad with dressing — with her fingers.  No, I was not at McDonald’s or a high school cafeteria — I was in a first date kind of place.  She was in fact on a first date with my friend (and as it turned out;  last date).

Captain Caveman is the guy who doesn’t care which utensil he’s supposed to use at any given course — because he’ll be using his hands more than a fork or knife.  He chews with his mouth wide open and insists on talking so that bits of food fly out of his mouth almost as fast as he is shoveling in the enormous hunks.  He slurps, he wipes his face with the back of his hand, not a napkin.  You’d be tempted to think he was raised by wolves, but then you realize …. wolves have better manners.
What’s the most stunning display of inconsideration you’ve ever seen in a restaurant?

This weekend we had the great pleasure of having lunch at the Rose & Crown Pub located in the UK pavillion in Epcot.  You may be asking yourself; “during the food and wine festival why would they confine themselves to a single restaurant?”  The answer is two fold, 93 degree heat and an impending rain storm, not to mention that they restaurant recently launched a new menu.

Our party was Bill, Tyler (our 17 year old son) and myself.  Tyler ordered the “English Bulldog”  Bold pub fare if ever there was.  It’s a split English Banger with a rasher of bacon topped with mashed potatoes and cheddar cheese on a sub roll accompanied by a hearty portion of English Chips.  I am fairly certain he enjoyed his meal as it disappeared in under 5 minutes.  Though I must admit, he didn’t converse much about it!

Bill ordered the Fish and Chips which our family agrees are the best in Orlando.  They are part of the reason we keep our annual passes!

And I ordered a Chicken and Mushroom pie with a side of mushy peas.

The pie was perfectly cooked, creamy without being fatty.  Great flavor.  Even Tyler liked the Mushy Peas.  I think they are an acquired taste, but I have definitely acquired the taste, I love them!

Rather than tell you what I thought of dessert, Sticky Toffee Pudding, I thought I’d show you.  If a picture is worth a 1000 words, well, you’ll see.

I haven’t written in so long — I’ve been cooking and eating but I haven’t had time to write and I keep forgetting to take pictures when I cook.  UGH!  So instead of a recipe today I want to share my surprise trip to Chelesea Market.

Last week I was in New London, Connecticut shooting a customer video.  I was supposed to fly home on Friday September 11.  Unfortunately the weather didn’t cooperate with me.  A wind and rain storm settled in on the East Coast that morning.  Undaunted, I drove two hours to LaGuardia, braved the wind and rain to fill the tank and check in my rental car.  Then I took the shuttle to the terminal and wondered how long my flight would be delayed.  When I checked in the flight was on time and all was going far too well for me.  By the time I made it through security my flight had been canceled!  The gate agent urged me to go get a hotel before they were gone as the weather was expected to worsen rather than improve.  When you get that kind of advice, you take it and quickly.

So, I claimed my luggage and had my travel agent find me a room in New York.  Because I was contending with September 11, the U.S. Open and the MTV Video Music Awards; rooms were not easy to come by and I ended up staying in the Sheraton Manhattan (as a side note avoid this hotel at all costs).  And it was wet, very wet, as you can see below.

In spite of the weather I made my way to Chelsea Market as I had never been there before.  I tried unsuccessfully to stop into several places but had the worst time getting service — imagine that, bad service in Manhattan!

Chelsea Market was not what I expected.  I expected European style food market or Pike’s Market in Seattle but it was more like a collection of restaurants and food shops.  Before you start spamming me — yes, there were vegetables, a fish monger and a butcher.  It just was not what I expected. I kept thinking that if I walked around a corner it was going to open up into a food market but unfortunately I never found that corner.  (and Security wouldn’t let me up to the Food Network.  Don’t they know I write a food blog!)

After walking and getting soaked in the rain, I was freezing and famished.  I found an adorable place called “The Green Table” and stopped in for some lunch.  That was a FIND!

I ordered the Chicken Pot Pie and a glass of Chardonnay (unfortunately I don’t remember who made the Chardonnay as it was a very forgettable wine; not bad just lacking any distinction that made it worth remembering).  The pot pie however was a different story.  The filling was like a big bowl of Thanksgiving happiness without the two days in the kitchen.  The chef used lots of black pepper, fresh sage and vegetables.  The homey aroma hit me and made my mouth water before the server even had the plate on the table.  The broth was thick and hearty but not overly rich and certainly not overpowered by cream which is a common pot pie faux paux.  The crust was flaky and delicious, it may have been pre made pastry crust I’m not sure and I don’t even care, it was perfect.  So perfect that I ate the entire thing!

If I hadn’t been eating in front of a window to the courtyard I may have ignored the fact that I was out in public and licked the bowl.  This was pot pie the way I would make it if I thought to put the sage in it.  I was able to see the baked eggs and salmon entrees as well and they looked equally delicious and were also quickly devoured.

If you have occasion to stop by the Green Table, do so.  You’ll enjoy it!

I am so behind on my blogging because of the wine bloggers conference and a very packed work schedule which pays the bills so I can write!  I apologize for the long delay between posts…

I have so many things I want to report from the Wine Bloggers Conference, that will for certain be another post because I want to get it right but I’d really like to thank the Winemakers of Sonoma and Napa County who made the conference an amazing success.  I learned a great deal and had a fabulous time!

At the end of our trip we spent the weekend in San Francisco, my husband’s 17 year old son is moving in with us this weekend, so the idea of quality time appealed to me.  While in San Francisco we stayed at the JW Marriott which was a great hotel with a very service oriented staff.  The location was central to everything we did for the weekend including dinner at Fino’s.

I first visited Fino’s about a year ago on the recommendation of the hotel concierge.  I have to admit, as I approached the place I thought it was a bit suspect.  It’s tucked away in the lobby of the Andrew’s Hotel which is in much need of a make-over.  However on that night I was cold and so I went in, and I am SO happy I did.

North Beach is known as the place to go for Italian food, but this gem of a restaurant makes their own sauces by hand, they make the pasta in-house, the soups are freshly made; (you guessed it) in-house.  And the menu prices are extremely reasonable.

I ordered the minestrone soup which was ordinary.  I think it was too early in the evening and it hadn’t had the opportunity to develop it’s flavors correctly.

For entrees my husband had the Linguine alla Bolognese (Linguine with meat sauce) and I had the Fettuccine con Prosciutto e Funghi (Fettuccine in a light tomato cream sauce with mushrooms and prosciutto)  Both of us loved our entrees and swapped plates halfway through so we could taste each other’s dish.

The highlight of the meal was dessert; Zabaglione with fresh straberries.  Zabaglione is an Italian custard made with egg yolks, sugar, lemon and Madeira wine.  They let me go into the kitchen to see the dish being prepared.  I’ve seen this lots of times on television, but never in person.  Mario the chef made it in a huge copper bowl directly over the burner (instead of a double boiler).  He made it look easy — which is the real trick.  I think I’m going to try it at home with amaretto.

Our waiter was extremely attentive, we were never forgotten about nor were we ever rushed.  After our meal we went up to the bar to watch the action in the tiny kitchen a little longer.

If you are In San Francisco I highly recommend you try Fino — it’s not far at all from Union Square and it’s a meal many visitors miss out on.

Fino Ristorante
624 Post
San Francisco, CA
415-928-2080

We go to Columbia because we crave the white sangria (which is a treat) however I suggest you enjoy it in the bar.  It’s made with Cava Spanish Sparkling wine and none of my very skilled friends are able to replicate it at home.  Columbia also has a very nice salad called a 1905 salad that they toss table side.  (link is to a recipe posted on food network’s site which is exactly the same)

Last night we met a friend there for the white sangria and appetizers (we asked to sit in the dining room, as it was 5:30 and the place was 70% empty).

The waiter greeted us and “highlighted” about 9 items on the menu, not specials, just the most expensive.  This took him at least 4 minutes and he gushed like a wanna-be Broadway star auditioning for Andrew Lloyd Webber. He offered us still or sparkling water but was visibly disappointed when we asked for tap (“Oh, you want Celebration’s finest”)

We ordered the sangria immediately and he brought it right away.  The Sangria is made table-side at Columbia and he did a great job.  This sadly is my last compliment.

When we ordered we explained that one of our party had other dinner plans, we’d be in and out but we wanted to SPLIT a salad and order some appetizers.

He soaked us for three salads (I feel very confident this was a soaking and not misunderstanding) and the appetizers we ordered (empanadas and croquettes) were off the steam table — freezer was the strongest flavor.

The salad is tossed table side in an elaborate and enjoyable “show” which was ruined before he left the table.  I’m not making this up (I’m not this creative) ; he asked if we were saving room for dessert BEFORE he even walked away.

The last straw … I was eating the black bean salsa (which was tasty) off the frozen empanadas and he pulled the plate while I was chewing (that way I couldn’t protest).

He promptly brought the check and returned within 3 minutes to collect the signed credit card receipts and count his tip.

Our total bill for this experience was $20 per person plus tip.  Not overwhelming, but for what we got certainly not a value.

In summary:

Ambiance: Pretty, but hot the air conditioning wasn’t working well

Food: Frozen

Drinks: Excellent

Waiter: Ass

Whineaux Verdict:  Enjoy the Sangria but have dinner someplace enjoyable.

Friday night our favorite restaurant, Café D’Antonio in Celebration hosted a wine dinner and Angels Share Wine provided the wines. Angel’s Share Wine is a distributor that focuses on boutique wineries in the Napa area, in this case they selected California wines made in the Italian style.

The dinner was an incredible 4 course meal, Chef Sergio outdid himself. Each course was paired with a wine.

First Course – Insalata di Finocchio

Arugula topped with fresh fennel, red onion, tangerine pulp and finished with tangerine dressing served with a 2006 Crawford Wine Company “Highlander” Sauvignon Blanc.

The wine was poured before the food was served, giving us all a chance to taste the wine on its own. It retails for about $23 and this was the one wine we all agreed we liked (we had a group of six ranging in wine tastes from the serious collector to the Fish Eye Fan Club). On its own the wine was a great summer glass, light in color and fragrance we all picked up on fruit and acid, it was smooth and enjoyable. The wine representative told us we tasted pineapple, but we disagreed. When paired with the salad this wine came to life, the spice of the arugula and sweet of the tangerine was a perfect compliment.

Second Course – Tonno alla Griglia

Fresh Tuna Loin encrusted with fresh cracked pepper, grilled over oak blocks served with caramelized apples paired with a 2007 Bocatta Wine Chardonnay from their Stag’s Leap vineyard. The wine was from Mark Harold and aged in French Oak barrels.

Again, the wine came first and alone. The difference was this time we did not like it at all. The first taste and smell was of alcohol and hit the back of our mouth with an unwelcome bite. Considering they went to the significant expense of aging the wine in French Oak, it was completely lacking in that “Oakey, buttery yum” that I love about Chardonnay.

The tuna was our favorite course of the night. Chef Sergio gave us excellent cuts of fish and the scent of oak from the grill was still on the fish when it came to the table. I personally never would have put the apples with the fish but I truly loved the combination. Each dish was superb on its own, but when combined in a single mouthful the flavor exploded. The wine did come together with the food, but Napa Chardonnay’s typically make my heart sing, especially the Stag’s Leap vineyards. At a retail price of $32 I didn’t hate it, but I found it disappointing and there are better values out there for sure.

Third Course – Agnello

Leg of Lamb marinated with garlic, rosemary and extra virgin olive oil then roasted and accompanied by Italian mushroom risotto served with a 2004 Hestan Vineyards “Meyer” Cabernet Sauivgnon.

If we hadn’t been so full by the time the lamb arrived, it may have been our favorite course. Tender, moist and delicate not at all over seasoned and the risotto at Antonio’s is always a treat so it was a lovely pairing. The wine was a big fruity cab, not at all spicy. The nose had quite a bit of alcohol, but also the expected berry and spice. The texture was pure velvet. While I enjoyed it, I’m not convinced that it is worthy of a $58 retail price tag (which puts it on a restaurant wine list at roughly $140 and absolutely not worth that)

Fourth Course – Crespelle di Ciocolato

Chocolate crepe filled with fresh chocolate whipped chocolate cream and finished with a drizzle of blackberry reduction served with a 2006 Charter Oak Winery “Monte Rosso” Zinfindel.

I can’t possibly improve on the description of the dessert, it lived up to its promise, not too sweet and a big chocolate payoff – need I say more.

The wine is made by hand in a 100 year old basket press and the vines are Sonoma old growth (dating to 1880). The care  taken in producing the wine was evident in the glass. It was a dark hearty wine that stood up to the chocolate and blackberry but didn’t overpower it. It was an excellent pairing. Again, I think the wine was a bit overpriced for what it offered, $57 per bottle retail, but this is a wine that could comfortably take you through dinner to dessert and in that sense I wouldn’t be disappointed if I ordered if in a restaurant.

I hope Antonio’s offers another wine dinner. The food was fantastic and I was able to experience wines I would not otherwise have tasted.

Inspired by a post titled “10 Things a Chef won’t Tell you” I just read on Chef Gui’s blog; I thought I’d write an open letter to restaurant owners, there are things your customer isn’t telling you….  Do you care?  One caveat, all of this assumes that your kitchen is in order and your food is good. 

1) We want to Love you — Help us.    I enter a new restaurant really hoping to find a place that I love and want to tell my friends about.  I want to like your restaurant, I don’t want to complain about it.  Help me love you by  not assuming that I’m going to be a pain in the ass (or treating me as such).  I’ve walked into restaurants only to be told three times between the hostess stand and the table what time the kitchen closes (If you are that eager to get out then don’t seat me).  Many times  I’ve been approached by the server with tales of woe about how busy they are (before the hello can I get you something to drink).  Keep the bad day in the back of the house.  It seems really simple, but if you make me feel welcome, even if the food is so-so — I’ll keep coming back.

2) Bad service will overpower amazing food.   I can’t even tell you how many times I’ve had a good meal and bad service.  I’ve gone back and still had bad service.  What I remember is not the food, but the service (or lack thereof).  If your front of the house staff is poorly trained you can have Gordon F-ing Ramsay in the back and people still won’t come back.  Train your staff.  As a bonus, here are the 10 things I that make me happy:

1. Say hello and smile when I walk in the door
2. If there’s a wait, don’t look at the board and act like you are reconfiguring a sattelight, just tell me that you think I’ll be waiting XX  minutes let me know I  can  wait in the bar (then please come get me in the bar, I’ve also been sent to the bar and forgotten leaving me drunk, but still hungry).
3. Hostesses: TELL THE SERVER YOU SAT THEIR STATION – this is big, I don’t mind waiting for a table, I do mind sitting for 30 minutes at the table watching servers run around like mad without acknowledging my party.
4. Take my drink order please! But don’t run away like you are afraid I may order an appetizer — If Ijust waited 45 minutes for a table then I’m probably pretty hungry and likely a little edgy.  And as a bonus, the extra two minutes at the table saves you an extra trip while increasing the check and tip.
5. Teach your staff to open wine bottles.  Let me say this again.  Teach your staff to open wine bottles!  Do not let them on the floor until they can demonstrate this skill.  You have house wine that has to be opened every night — this is the perfect teaching opportunity.  I’ve seen it all, bottles under the arm, between the legs, put on the floor.  Do you really want to drink from a bottle that was just between a stranger’s legs? Please save me from this.
6. Have a staff tasting.  I know food costs are high, margins are low but when I ask what something is like and the waiter says they don’t know because they can’t afford to eat where they work; I have to assume the owner is one cheap bastard.  If your staff knows that your $32 steak is hand aged, grass fed and melts in my mouth oh yeah and the chef makes his own sauce – I’m not just sold, I’m excited.  If I’m left to wonder I will probably pick a safe moderately priced choice.  You also have to teach them how to describe a menu item.  Gone are the days of professional wait staff in all but the finest of restaurants.  Chances are you are hiring people that have never eaten at a restaurant as expensive as yours — you have to teach them what the diners expect and how to entice diners to order more.
7. If you are out of something that’s fine, but tell me before I get my heart set on it
8. Here’s a big one that’s going to be hard to swallow.  If I ask the waiter how something is and they say “it’s not one of our more popular items, you may want to consider X; ” I LOVE THEM.  Honesty is amazing.  They  just saved me from eating a meal they don’t think I’ll enjoy.  And they saved the kitchen from the hassel of me sending it back.  This kind of honesty creates loyalty and usually increases the tip.
9. DO NOT auction off my food.  If you use runners then train the staff to know where to put the plates and make sure they know anything we may have asked for (extra condiments for example) is put on the table.  A meal can be ruined getting cold waiting for a sauce or seasoning.
10. At the end of my meal, drop the check off, refill my coffee let me know you aren’t rushing me (because you aren’t right?).  THEN DO NOT FORGET ME.

3) It doesn’t matter how casual your restaurant is, I never want to sit with the server.  The only exception is if we are regulars, we know about your life and we talk about more than where the fish came from.  The dinner table is a very private place.  Offering to share a meal or your table (even if said table is in a restaurant) with someone is an intimate gesture.  Please don’t assume that because your server’s are attractive and friendly I want them at my table.  I don’t.  This is the kind of action that makes it unlikely I’ll be back.  And if they choose to slide into a bench with me I may leave before I order.  I don’t know who started this practice but it’s not friendly, it’s just rude.

4) If you have a wine list, have a wine expert.  This doesn’t mean you need a master of wine but if I ask for a recommendation and the waiter doesn’t ask any quesitons about my preference and simply goes for one of the most expensive bottles on the list I know he’s an ass.  Just have someone that can come to the table and help us make a choice we’d like.

5) Store your wine properly.  Wine does not belong on a shelf over the hot air exhaust fan.  If you don’t have a fancy cellar that’s OK, I don’t always expect that, but red wine is to be served at about 55 degrees which is not room temperature (especially not the room temperature of a hot kitchen).  If your wine is in a hot area, then you are ruining it and I don’t want to drink it.  Please put it in a cool place.

6) Have a decent house wine. Decent doesn’t mean expensive, it means drinkable.  Barefoot or Yellow Tail is not decent;  wine out of a box is not decent;  I’m sorry it’s just not.  If you don’t personally like wine, then have someone help you.  Your house wine shouldn’t taste like any of the following: chemicals, alchohol, tannin, sour grapes, rotten fruit or monkey’s ass.

7) Enough with the giant portions. I like to order several things.  I like an appetizer, soup, entree, dessert etc.  I’m usually trying to narrow my choices but I almost never order dessert because the portions are so huge that between my husband and I we can’t finish a shared appetizer and entree let alone add a dessert.  I’m not suggesting diet plates or micro portions; but seriously who can eat a half a chicken comfortably?  One pound of pasta is not a reasonable portion.  You are losing money on the food thrown out and the dessert I didn’t order.
FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT’S HOLY– Offer a couple of simple straightforward dishes. There’s always someone in the crowd that wants an extra well no sauce unseasond super dry chicken breast chip, but that’s not who I’m talking about.  They can’t taste anything anyway, so forget them.  There’s also always someone in the crowd that wants a good meal but only wants three or four comfortable ingredients — they don’t want to eat octopus (even if they should, even if it’s your signature dish) They want good food made with ingredients they recognizes.  Give them an option.

9) Make your own damn soup — I’m getting a bit worked up.  But I make soup almost every day so I know it’s easy.  We won’t tell the others that soup is leftovers (what they don’t know won’t hurt them).  Soup is profit and soup should be good.  Soup should not be a line item on your Sysco bill.  I can’t tell you how often I have the conversation with other diners that they feel cheated on the soup menu.  Soup should be something your mom would recognize.  Soup is comfort food, make it comforting.

10) Diners with unruly children are ruining the experience for everyone else:  If your establishment is advertising kids birthday party specials, and “kid’s eat free Tuesday,” this doesn’t apply to you.  If you have a special Valentine’s day menu, it does.  Watching kids run around the restaurant under the legs of the servers or hearing them wail is ruining my meal — and it’s not just me.  We’ve all been trapped on a plane with an upset infant and know how miserable it is.  If my dining experience in your restaurant is paying $150 for a meal and being subjected to someone else’s brats I’m not coming back so I hope they do.  For some reason it is no longer common to expect children to behave.  You can tell as a server, hostess, manager or owner when someone is making your other diners miserable.  You need to step in.  I expect you to step in.  If I sat at my table throwing things or yelling at other patrons you would send me home (and you should).  Offer to pack thier meal to go, comp it and send them home (unless they are regulars then just suck it up).  But otherwise I’m guessing there are three or four tables around them that will cut their meal and bill short and not come back.

Chef Gui was right — I don’t want to be a chef.  I don’t want to cook in 120 degree kitchens, I don’t want to deal with the staffing issues or food cost or any of it.  I want to cook at home and cook like a chef for people I love.  And more and more of us can do that.  I don’t typically decide to go out to a restaurant because I didn’t want to cook.  I decide to go out because I want to be in the atmosphere of the restaurant, I love the chef’s signature dish or I want to try something new.   I go out because I want a special night.  The food is a huge part of delivering that, but the best food in the world can’t overpower a bad experience at the table or an uncomfortable atmosphere.