Between you and me, since we’re all such great friends — I do not have a “cool card” nor have I ever had one. The “cool card” is what I believe ultra hip people flash at each other like badges to get into exclusive places with trendy decor and food. When I manage to sneak into one of these places I spend most of my time casting suspicious looks at patrons and employees wondering if they know that I don’t have a cool card and when I’m going to get kicked out. In short, I spend all my time thinking about how much I don’t belong there and none of my time enjoying the place.
Gastro Pubs are trendy right now, and Haven is set in Old Towne Orange– one of the cool card centers of the world. I’m almost surprised that there aren’t roadblocks to keep “the others” (that would be me) out. When we planned a short trip to LA last month Bill searched high and low for a dining experience that would knock my socks off — when he found Haven on the web — My socks were already itching to jump off my feet — I couldn’t wait to get there. The menu looked like I had written it (or at least my cool alter ego chef self had written it), the beer list looked like I could swim in it and even the wine and spirits list were impressive. The biggest draw — Bacon Ice Cream!
When the day finally arrived (yes, we are the sort of people that find a restaurant weeks in advance and eagerly anticipate the meal as if Christmas was coming) my nerd self took over — what if the place didn’t live up to expectations? What if I wasn’t comfortable there — what if what if what if???? As we pulled into Old Towne — my fears were heightened, lots of people wearing all black, shiny fancy cars and this place was on cool street and it was packed. The minute we walked in the crowded door (and mind you this was at 6:00, early dinner so we could be home to put our friend’s little one to bed) all my fears fell away. It’s the kind of place everyone can go and feel they belong. There were tables of people I’m certain were models, actors and hipsters, a couple tables of business types finishing up their happy hour and closing their deals, couples on dates and families; all enjoying themselves in the same environment. Haven says that they are “creating a destination that can demand the respect and love of being called a home away from home. A restaurant with a heart… Your own Haven.” I think they succeeded.
At 6:00 we faced an hour wait for our table — no worries, the extensive beer list would keep us occupied. Except for reasons I cannot explain I didn’t want beer. Typically in a place that prides itself on a beer collection, wine is ignored, not so at Haven. I had an amazing glass of wine, I’d tell you which one, but I think the wine list has already changed. Because they’ve been so attentive to the wine list, I’m positive you’ll find a wine you love. My friends made their way through the beer offerings and were also highly impressed. Hits included Avery Dunagan IPA and Firestone Union Jack IPA (do you see a trend?).
Once seated I proceeded to try to order one of everything on the menu. My companions stopped me, but I did manage to order three appetizers, the last by shouting over my shoulder to a retreating waiter — that way nobody could stop me. Sneaky but effective. Because we were having Avery IPA, we had to order the Housemade Potato Chips — which were perfect. Crunchy, salty and really ought to come with a side of the bleu cheese ice cream (more on that later). Our second choice was Roasted Brussels Sprouts which though perfectly roasted were overpowered by the lemon juice. Hopefully that was a line cook mistake on one dish. And my sneaky order; we had an entree portion of Mac ‘N Cheese with fontina, parmesan and black truffles. The four of us descended on the Mac ‘N Cheese like kids on ice cream, the clank of forks against the dish sound like a percussion band and lingering too long by the bowl could have resulted in a puncture wound. In short, we liked it.
Perhaps we were too full, but our entree’s fell short of our appetizer experience. I wanted to be adventurous and ordered the braised lambs neck over kale. It was just OK, the kale was the hit for me. The lamb itself was fatty. I asked Chef Greg Daniels about this and his response:
“Most of the fat on the lamb neck is intramuscular, and adds to the rich flavor of the dish. Anything on the outside of the neck is partially rendered during the process of searing the necks before braising. The appreciation of a cut of meat such as the neck involves some working around the fat and the tendons that are located throughout it.”
My Husband had the Braised Short Ribs which were delightful, they were perfectly seasoned and fork tender. The ribs were served on a carrot puree. I thought this was an interesting choice since the short ribs have a soft texture I was looking to find some “crunch” on the plate. Since I was asking the Chef questions, I asked why he selected the carrot puree vs. something with more texture:
“The reason for the smooth texture of the purée to accompany the rib was to add to the richness of the dish. The velvety mouthfeel of the carrot purée works together with the braised meat so well, that I felt it unnecessary to add another component to the dish.”
Our friends ordered the Roasted Jidori Chicken Breast and the Haven Hanger Steak. Both were good though the hanger steak was a bit dry.
We finished with dessert. Of course we ordered the Candied Bacon Ice cream and also the Irish Car Bomb — a Guinness Stout Chocolate Cake with Guinness ice cream, Irish Cream chocolate sauce, Jameson caramel. The Bacon Ice Cream was fun to try and we ate all of it, but the Car Bomb was , well, the bomb. Again we were a group of spoons and elbows nobody spoke, we just ate.
After such an amazing meal you would think that I was done, but the description of the Tarte Tatin was haunting me, “pâte brisée, gala apple, Maytag bleu cheese ice cream.” I simply HAD to have that bleu cheese ice cream — and so I did. I was once told that when you taste a dish the first thing to do is taste the individual elements then taste the composed dish. So I did, I tasted the tarte and found it overwhelmingly sweet — I was concerned. Then I tried the ice cream which seemed like it belonged in a salad because the bleu cheese taste was overwhelming. On it’s own, each element seemed out of balance. Next I tasted a composed bite — and it was amazing. I was also inspired to try the bleu cheese ice cream with a potato chip and loved it.
Even though the restaurant was packed, and our table was in the area where people hang out before being seated, we didn’t feel crowded and our server was fantastic. We didn’t wait for anything, he was attentive, glasses were never empty, dirty plates did not pile up and he was personal without trying to be our new fake best friend.
Before writing this review, I sent email to Chef Daniels with some questions about the menu and also a mini Q&A which he was kind enough to respond to. Below is my interview with the Chef:
Why did you become an Executive Chef?
I’ve always loved cooking. From a very young age, I helped my mother in the kitchen in whatever way possible. During my 20′s, I worked through many positions in the restaurant industry, and fell in love with it. I spent many years bartending and also supervised or managed for restaurants and nightclubs. I went to culinary school during this time, and began working in kitchens. Much of my time was split between my passion for cooking and my late night bartending to pay the bills. Many connections were made during these years, and the Haven Gastropub concept was developed between some of the people I have worked with and met over those years.
What is unique about Haven?
We set ourselves apart from the rest with our unique food offerings, our amazing beer, wine, and liquor selection, and our attention to detail when it comes to operating an establishment of ours. We’ve all spent a lot of time in the industry, and we try to look at all issues and details from every possible angle. We’ve spent many hours debating things such as paint and fabric colors, that other businesses rely either solely on an interior decorator or haphazardly choose themselves. I think our efforts shine through, being confident yet understated.
What would you recommend people order?
My go-to items are usually the Haven Burger, the Braised Short Rib, or the Jumbo Prawns. Otherwise, I tend to suggest whatever the newest item is on our menu. We change the menu frequently with the season, or due to boredom. I like going to restaurants and trying something new, so I try to offer the same to our guests.
Cuts such as the Neck of Lamb, or dishes like Venison or Rabbit when we do those specials are always my favorite. So many people get in a rut eating beef, chicken, or pork. Try something out of the ordinary!
What’s your favorite thing about running a restaurant?
Giving people the full experience. Great food, great beer, and great service. Showing people that there are restaurants out there that actually care about the food they are putting on your plate. We have a lot of regular guests, and I think they’ve realized or they always knew that there is better food out there. Applebee’s and Olive Garden have littered our communities with subpar, overpriced fare, and I’m tired of seeing lines outside their buildings. You can get a great meal for the same price. It just baffles me. (Editor’s Note: Me too!)
What skill do you think that the advanced home cook should master and why?
Mise en place. Just having everything prepped and ready to go is the best thing a home cook could have going for them. It makes cooking more enjoyable, more practical, and the end result will seem less rushed and hectic. Get your ingredients all prepped and organized, then just enjoy the process…
Thank you to Chef Daniels for answering my questions. In summary, the Whineaux recommendation is check this place out. If a review tells you they love everything they ate, I contend they are liars. I’d rather be honest with you. I don’t believe an objective reviewer can love or hate everything about a place. Overall I loved this place and would return in a minute and definitely order the Mac ‘N Cheese. The attention to detail that Chef Daniels spoke of is evident and everyone in the restaurant seems focused on creating a good guest experience not checking for cool cards at the door.
Cheers!
